Design and pattern engineering of functional men’s business dress shirt
figureposted on 09.03.2020, 17:14 authored by Kwan Ki Vanessa Chu, Chu-po Ho, Joe Au, Jin Lam
Traditional mass-produced patternmaking systems of anthropometry data collection, interpretation and applications in men’s business dress shirt design and grading practices with respect to ergonomic performance are based on insufficient knowledge and fail to meet the specific demand of the potential user group: male Chinese office workers with an apple body shape. Although functional design tools are integral to apparel design because they increase the range of movement, designers are generally unfamiliar with the design principle and application of pattern engineering design. This paper proposes a method to measure the dynamic anthropometric data of the potential user group during eight quasi-static office postures. Experimental work is carried out to collect 20 measurements of 7 male Chinese subjects in both static and quasi-static office postures. One-way ANOVA is used to analyse how key quasi-static office postures affect body measurements in a static state; these key measurements describe the characteristics of the apple body shape. The subsequent step describes a method to analyse the woven garment/body relationship to determine key stress areas on the body in key quasi-static office postures and the direction and location of functional design tools in pattern engineering design. Finally, the design principle of 4D pattern engineering is proposed to create a functional business dress shirt design.